Reuben's Home Inspection Blog

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Radon Resistant Construction Is Now Required In Minnesota

It’s estimated that one out of three homes in Minnesota has elevated levels of radon gas.  Because of these high numbers, the Minnesota State Building Code has adopted Apendix F of the International Residential Code, Radon Control Methods.  This means that all new homes in Minnesota must now be built with a passive radon control system.  A passive radon control system is similar to a standard radon mitigation system, but there are a few key differences.

A standard radon mitigation system consists of a 3″ plastic vent pipe that starts under the slab in a basement and ends above the roof, much like a plumbing vent.  A fan is connected to this pipe, usually in the attic, so the air and gases under the slab are constantly pulled out, creating a negative pressure zone in the area under the basement slab.  This prevents most radon from entering in to the home.  If drain tile is present, the pipe can be tied in to the drain tile, as this creates a perfect way to suck air soil gases from under the entire slab.  Gaps in the slab are also sealed to help prevent radon entry.

Passive Radon System A passive radon control system consists of the same 3″ plastic pipe, but without a fan.  An electrical junction box will need to be wired in to the attic near the pipe so a fan can be easily added later, if needed. A  layer of 4″ aggregate, sand, or soil gas collection mats must be installed under the basement slab, and 6 mil polyethelene laid over the aggregate before the basement slab is poured.  This allows soil gases to be properly pulled from everywhere under the slab, and keeps soils gas from entering in to the home if the basement slab cracks.  Any openings in the basement floor must also be sealed, such as sump baskets and bathtub drains.

There are many benefits to building a home with a passive radon control system.  The most obvious is that it reduces the risk of lung cancer.   Passive systems don’t require the use of a fan, so there is no electricity being constantly consumed - it’s a ‘green’ thing.   These systems are also much more cosmetically appealing, as most of the components will be concealed in finished spaces.  Radon_mitigation_system The photo at left shows a radon mitigation system that was installed on an old home - the fan and the vent pipe are clearly visible from outside the house.  Another benefit to passive systems is that they will help control moisture in the basement.  Openings in the basement floor now need to be sealed, which will help prevent moisture migrating from under the slab to the rest of the basement, and eventually the rest of the house.

For more information on passive radon control systems in Minnesota, visit the Minnesota Department of Health.


Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Home Inspections Minneapolis

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minneapolis Home Inspections

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How To Fix Ungrounded Three Prong Outlets

One of the most common electrical defects that I find when inspecting old houses in Minneapolis and Saint Paul is ungrounded three prong outlets.  This happens when a standard three prong outlet is wired without the ground wire being connected.   Today I'll give a brief explanation of what the third prong is for, and I'll discuss a few ways to correct a mis-wired three prong outlet.  I didn't consult an attorney before writing this article, so I feel like I should add a disclaimer before giving any electrical how-to advice: Don't do any of this work if you're not qualified.  This is only an overview.

The third prong on an outlet is commonly referred to as ‘the ground', and it provides an alternate path for electricity that may stray from an appliance or product.  This is an important safety feature that has been required since 1962, which minimizes the risk of electric shock, and allows surge protectors to protect your electrical equipment, such as televisions, computers, stereos, and other devices.

The ideal way to repair an ungrounded three-prong outlet is to establish a continuous electrical path back to the main panel.  If the outlet is installed in a metal box, and that metal box has metal conduit all the way back to the panel, this will probably be pretty easy to do.  To test this, you can use an inexpensive pig-tail electrical tester, which is available at any hardware store for about two dollars.  With the circuit energized, touch one end of the tester to the hot wire, which should go to the smaller slot on the outlet, and one end of the tester to the electrical box  (see photo below left).  If the tester lights up, the box is grounded.  Now all you need to do is attach a bare copper wire to the box, and use this as the ground wire for a three prong outlet (see photo below right).  Click the photos for larger pictures.

Testing For Ground on a Two-Prong Outlet Grounding a three-prong outlet to a box

If you perform the test with a pig-tail tester and the light doesn't light up when you touch the hot wire to the box, the box is not grounded (or you're not touching a hot wire).  In this case, you could run a ground wire back to the panel, or you could install a GFCI outlet.  A GFCI outlet provides the best possible protection against shocks, but without a ground wire, this outlet will not provide any protection for your electrical equipment.  A surge protector plugged in to an ungrounded outlet will do nothing, and you could fry your new plasma TV.  You will need to add a sticker to the GFCI outlet that reads "No Equipment Ground" - this sticker comes with every GFCI outlet.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Home Inspection Minneapolis

RELATED POST: Converting Two Prong Outlets - this process is almost identical to repairing ungrounded three prong outlets, and so is the blog.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minneapolis Home Inspections

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Should Real Estate Agents Attend The Home Inspection?

 

Many real estate agents don't attend their buyer's home inspection because someone has told them that this increases their liability.  I completely disagree.  It's their conduct at the inspection that puts them at risk, not their presence.   About 75% of the agents that I regularly work with attend at least part of the inspection, and almost all of my clients attend the entire inspection.  I've identified several different types of agents throughout the years, and I''m going to give my two cents as to whether they should attend or not. 

The Annoyed Agent
These agents act like they're doing their client a favor by selling them a house, and they're obviously annoyed with their client.  They moan and sigh every time I talk about something that needs attention.  They always want to write up an addendum to the purchase agreement and have the client sign it while we're still at the property, before they've even seen my report.  Stay home.

The Know-It-All
These agents have a background in construction or they know a lot about houses, and they want to make sure everyone knows it.  Sometimes they do more talking than I do at the inspection, and they'll often downplay or disagree with items that I say need attention.  These agents give bad information, they seem to be working on their own agenda, and they're exposing themselves to a lot of liability.  Stay home.

The Critic
These are the agents that don't know me, and they're scared as heck because I'm not their 'usual inspector'.   They're afraid that I'm going to say something that will blow the deal, they look over my shoulder the whole time, and they try to question everything I say unless it's positive.  These agents clearly have their own agenda in mind, and they act bitter because the client picked me.  Stay home. 

The Other Inspector
This agent attends the home inspection and tries to point out anything the home inspector might have missed, and tries to be a second set of eyes.  This agent has good intentions, but if a home inspector needs this help to produce a solid  inspection it might be time to find another home inspector.  While these agents have their client's needs in mind, they could be giving their client the idea that they're just as qualified to inspect the home.  An attorney might tell these agents to stay home - see the note at the bottom of this blog.

The Rookie
These agents may have never attended a home inspection, and they haven't sold a lot of houses.  They learn a ton about the inspection process, and they use this information to help their current client and their future clients.  These agents should definitely be there to learn.  Come along.

The Moral Support

These agents show up at the inspection because they're working with first time home buyers that need their hand held throughout the entire process.  They introduce me to the client, and they tag along for the whole inspection to provide moral support.  They don't get in the way, and their clients usually appreciate them being there.  These agents have their client's needs in mind.  Come along.

The Inspectors Assistant
These agents attend the entire inspection, and they often ask more questions than the client does.  They offer to adjust the thermostat, they go back inside while we're inspecting the outside to make sure a fan is turned on, and some have even been on the roof with me (I know I'm going to get crap for this one!).  These agents have their client's needs in mind.   Come along.

The Professional
These agents show up because they feel it's their due diligence.  They don't tag along with me much, but they want to know about any big issues that come up, and they usually want to understand the issues and see them firsthand.  These agents have their client's needs in mind.  Come along.

The first three types of agents that I talked about are the type that either have been sued or should be sued.  They're doing a disservice to their clients by attending the inspection, and they don't have any business being there.  I don't work with a lot of these agents, because they don't refer me.   Most of the agents that I work with truly have their client's best interest in mind, and I see no reason for them to be afraid to attend the inspection.  Maybe I'm too much of an optimist, but I've never subscribed to the phrase "No good deed goes unpunished".

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Bloomington Home Inspector

PS - About the "Other Inspector" - I read an article about this agent at the NAR web site, thank you Laura Parris for finding it for me!  I think this article might be one of the largest factors in agents not wanting to attend home inspections.   My interpretation of this article is "Rotten client does a rotten thing to real estate agent."  The whole premise of this tale is despicable.  I followed up with the author of the article because the article never tells how the story ended.  I asked if the agent had to pay for the repairs, and the author said "The insurance company paid".

 

 

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minneapolis Home Inspections

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Why Don't Home Inspectors Mention Code?

Home inspections are not ‘code’ inspections, and a lot of home inspectors even treat the word ‘code’ as taboo.  They call it the ‘C-word’.  I recently had another  home inspector on AR tell me he’s not even allowed to use that word in Kentucky.  This is such a taboo word that I don’t use it either, but I don’t think it has to be this way. 

The basis of taboo 
Three of the largest home inspection organizations make it clear in their Standards of Practice that home inspectors are not required to report on code compliance.  For example, the ASHI Standards of Practice state that “Inspectors are NOT required to determine compliance with regulatory requirements (codes, regulations, laws, ordinances, etc.).”  There is nothing in the standards prohibiting home inspectors from determining compliance… it’s just not a requirement.

Where ‘code’ plays a role in home inspections
Home inspections are conducted to educate the client – usually a home buyer.  The ASHI Standards of Practice states that Inspectors are required to report on Unsafe conditions, which is defined as a condition that is judged to be a significant risk to bodily injury during normal, day-to-day use; the risk may be due to damage, deterioration, improper installation, or a change in accepted residential construction standards.

Accepted Residential Construction Standards
This is not defined, but my interpretation of this means ‘building codes’.  This is how construction standards are defined.  Inspectors in different parts of the country have different building codes, so they also have different construction standards.  What is acceptable in one part of the country might be unacceptable in Minnesota.  Home inspectors should be expected to know what’s acceptable in their part of the country, and they should be able to prove it if necessary – this means citing code.

It’s always a judgement call
Since 2003, the National Electric Code has required arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) for bedroom circuits.  AFCIs prevent fires.  Does the lack of an AFCI breaker in a home built before 2003 constitute an unsafe condition?  What about a new construction home?  Let me ask that differently.  Should a home inspector call out missing AFCIs in homes built before 2003?  What about new construction homes?   If a home inspector doesn’t answer ‘yes’ to the last two questions or ‘no’ to the last two questions, they’re basing their answer on ‘code’, not ‘unsafe’ conditions.  Us home inspectors call this is a ‘construction defect’, but why not call a spade a spade?  It’s a code violation.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Golden Valley Home Inspections

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minneapolis Home Inspections

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